The second stage into which we suggest dividing the Sentiero del Viandante (Wayfarer’s Path) follows the “official” subdivision and goes from the village of Lierna to the wonderful Varenna. There are two variants for this stage, a high and a low one. The high one, more scenic, travels over higher elevations; the other remains lower but still tackles many uphill sections. Below we present both versions, first the low and then the high.
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Sentiero del Viandante: the low variant from Lierna to Varenna
The low variant of the Sentiero del Viandante (Wayfarer’s Path) from Lierna to Varenna is just over 10 kilometers long and takes about 4 hours to walk. While never complicated or dangerous, the first section of the trail coming out of Lierna has fairly steep inclines.
The second stage (low variant) of the Wayfarer’s Trail, at a glance:
- Departure: Lierna (260m asl)
- Arrival: Varenna (270m asl)
- Length: 10.3 km
- Positive elevation gain: 710m
- Total duration: about 4 hours
- Difficulty: Challenging
See the interactive map:
The beginning of the low variant of the Wayfarer’s Path from Lierna to Varenna
Our walk starts again where we left off, from Lierna Station. Here, from the main square, we descend a small ramp and, on the right, following the Sentiero del Viandante signs, we take Via Ducale. We proceed on a small flat road to the north that, in a short time, becomes pedestrian-only. When we are about at the height of the beautiful lakeside village of Riva Bianca, we turn right onto Via Giussana and ascend until we cross Via Manzoni near the nucleus of houses that make up the village of Giussana.
We enter the interior of the village and follow the signs for the low Nero-Coria-Fiumelatte variant of the Sentiero del Viandante, also marked by a red and white trail marker and the number 74. Passing the last houses, we take a path through the vegetable gardens that soon brings us out onto a paved section of road just above.
Turning left, we follow a downhill section of road until we meet a path (marked) that comes off to the right. We now enter the woods and walk for a few minutes on a level course. We then arrive at a nice viewpoint over the lake where a picnic table is placed (30 minutes from the start).
We now turn sharply to the right and begin to climb steeply, still remaining in the beautiful forest of hazel and beech trees. After about ten minutes, we reach the locality Nero, where there are some huts. We continue further and go deeper and deeper into the forest.
After a short flat section, the climb begins again, even steeper and with very few places to catch our breath. After an hour like this, in which we touch 40% gradients, we finally arrive at the village of Coria (2 hours from the start), where we rejoin the high variant that descends from Ortanella and Alpe Mezzedo and where the climb ends.
Coria to Fiumelatte
The trail now turns left (towards Fiumelatte) and proceeds on level ground for a few meters before starting a gradual descent, always remaining immersed in the forest. After 20 minutes, we arrive near some ruined huts and continue to descend following the orange signs.
Shortly after, we pass over a small wooden bridge and approach a beautiful viewpoint overlooking Lake Como, which we can reach with a short detour. The path now descends more steeply and some chains have been placed to ease the way, which especially in rain can become very slippery due to the presence of smooth stones on the path.
We continue to descend, admiring the view of Lake Como just in front of Bellagio, then the path flattens out for a short distance at the end of which we find a small staircase carved into the ground. We now find ourselves close to the SS 36. With the trail we climb upstream of the freeway and then walk parallel to the rockfall network, level.
As the freeway re-enters the tunnel, we begin to descend in the direction of the lake, with Varenna beginning to be seen through the foliage of the trees. At this time we are behind the hamlet of Fiumelatte , and the trail cuts horizontally through the valley of the river of the same name, before descending further in the direction of the hamlet.
Varenna and the Castle of Vezio
Our descent stops near a fork in the road. On the left we descend directly to Fiumelatte; we instead continue to the right , following the signs for Varenna. We walk on level ground for a few minutes until we reach the height of the Varenna Cemetery (3 hours and 30 minutes from the start).
We skirt it passing behind, then find a steep flight of steps that takes us to Viale delle Rimembranze, in front of the cemetery entrance, in Varenna. We walk down the road for a few meters, then on the right we find signs for Vezio Castle signposted 30 minutes away.
We follow the signs and climb some hairpin bends on a paved road. We arrive at a viewpoint where the asphalt road ends. We climb a few steps and resume the path. In this section, the Sentiero del Viandante overlaps with the Sentiero Scabium that climbs from Varenna to Vezio Castle.
The route is on a fairly wide and easy mule track, despite the presence of some uphill points, which passes among olive trees. Effectively after half an hour we arrive in front of the entrance to the castle (recommended visit: there is perhaps the most beautiful view in all of Lake Como).
Past the entrance to the castle, we reach a small square in the heart of Vezio (hamlet of Perledo). We turn right and then left, go down some steps, pass a ceramics store and come to a crossroads. Going straight ahead, the Wayfarer’s Trail goes toward Perledo and Bellano (third stage). However, our destination is Varenna: we turn left and follow a steep cobbled path that in about 20 minutes takes us near thelanding stage and train station of Varenna, where the second stage of the Sentiero del Viandante ends (about 4 hours from Lierna).
Wayfarer’s Path: the high variant from Lierna to Varenna
The high variant of the Sentiero del Viandante (Wayfarer’s Path) from Lierna to Varenna is about 11 kilometers long and, like the low variant, takes about 4 hours to hike. The trail, especially in the first section, has steep inclines, and the overall elevation gain of the hike is significant.
The second stage (high variant) of the Wayfarer’s Trail, at a glance:
- Departure: Lierna (260m asl)
- Arrival: Varenna (270m asl)
- Length: 11 km
- Positive elevation gain: 1,150m
- Total duration: about 4 hours
- Difficulty: Very challenging
See the interactive map:
The beginning of the high variant of the Sentiero del Viandante from Lierna to Varenna
Like the low variant, the high variant begins at Lierna Station. As soon as we leave the station and pass the parking lot, we find signs on our right: the typical orange sign of the Sentiero del Viandante. We see two signs, one of which signals the low variant, to the right. We follow the other sign, thus going to the left, on Via Panizza. After a short descent, we are faced with more signs, which suggest going left.
Here we have to make a short stretch on the road, on Via Parodi, passing under a small overpass. We then step onto the sidewalk and follow the road for a few meters until, at a crosswalk, we see an orange sign on the left . We follow it and continue on Via della Libertà.
After a few meters, we encounter a fork. We leave Via della Libertà (on the left) and take Via Genico, on the right, as indicated by a new sign. Here begins a climb on a fairly steep road. Staying on via Genico, we then come to a short flight of steps that makes us come out on via al Seminario. We continue and after a few meters we find more signs on the left for the Sentiero del Viandante (Wayfarer’s Trail) and also those for Trail 71.
The ascent to the Brentalone cross
We continue the ascent between narrow roads and pedestrian sections. We then pass under the SS36 overpass and begin here the actual trail, which climbs steeply into the forest.
Losing our way in this section is practically impossible. However, it is very useful to keep in mind that, in addition to the orange markings of the Wayfarer’s Trail, throughout the ascent we may also have marker 71 as a reference.
After about an hour of walking all uphill, we reach the first of the many viewpoints of this second stage of the Sentiero del Viandante: the Brentalone cross. We take advantage of this to catch our breath, admiring the magnificent view of the lake.
At the site, there are, in addition to the cross, a bench and a panel illustrating the trails in the area. We leave the bench and panel to our right and continue to follow trail marker 71.
Alpe di Mezzedo and Ortanella
The climb is not yet over, but the path is wide and, paying attention to rocks and dry leaves, presents no objective difficulties. We continue on our way following trail marker 71 and a few orange paint markers on trees and boulders, and after about half an hour we reachAlpe di Mezzedo (890m asl), an excellent spot for another stop with breathtaking views.
We continue on the path well indicated by the usual orange plaque and continue uphill. After a few meters, we meet a fork in the path. We keep to the left, as suggested by trail marker 71.
About 20 more minutes into the woods and we come to a dirt road. We follow it uphill until on the left we cross a green clearing with a small church: the church of San Pietro. Here we find a panoramic terrace that gives a very wide view of the lake and mountains.
We return to the trail and, after a few meters, we cross the sign indicating the locality San Pietro at the altitude of 900 meters. The climb is over. Here begins a flat section on a wide track, always well indicated by the orange signs, which also allow us not to take a wrong turn at the few forks.
We then follow the signs for the Wayfarer’s Path and Mt. Fopp, arriving at a small lake and then a playground, until we reach the village of Ortanella (we left St. Peter’s Church about 45 minutes ago).
The descent from Ortanella to Varenna
We take the dirt road to the left and descend slightly for about 20 minutes. We then meet a fork, at which we turn right, following the signs for Sentiero del Viandante and Varenna.
Here the descent becomes steeper, but not excessive. The trail is unique and well-marked. The descent is gladdened by continuous glimpses of the lake, which keep us company all the way down, to our left. After about 3 hours from the start, we can see Varenna from above, recognizable by its typical shape and the castle of Vezio, also clearly visible.
About an hour and a half after leaving Ortanella, we find another cross. Here, as throughout this last part of the trail, there are wonderful views of the lake and the mountains surrounding it.
The last part of the trail begins, which in a little less than an hour takes us to Varenna, passing near the castle of Vezio (recommended stage). Since our destination is the station, we ignore the last sign indicating the Sentiero del Viandante to the right (third stage, direction Perledo and Bellano) and instead continue in the direction of the station on the steep mule track that in about 20 minutes takes us near the landing stage and train station in Varenna, where the second stage of the Sentiero del Viandante ends.
About the Wayfarer’s Path
To learn more, read the general information about the Wayfarer’s Trail.
Description of stages:
- First leg: Lecco – Lierna
- Second leg: Lierna – Varenna
- Stage 3: Varenna – Dervio
- Stage 4: Dervio – Colico
Your Guide for the Wayfarer’s Path
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Photos and text by Michele Castelnovo and Cristina Sivieri
Reproduction reserved – Trekking Lecco
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